Shimanami Kaido: Cycling Onomichi to Imabari Across Six Islands

Across Japan’s Seto Inland Sea, a chain of islands links the historic port of Onomichi in Hiroshima Prefecture to the castle town of Imabari in Ehime. Between them runs the Shimanami Kaido, a cyclist-friendly route that strings together six islands with sweeping bridges and gentle spiral ramps. It’s a rare combination of infrastructure and scenery: broad shoulders, separate bike lanes on bridges, bilingual signage, and steady grades that invite first-time riders while still rewarding veterans with dramatic views and satisfying detours.

On maps, the route looks like a necklace. In motion, it feels like a film: quiet backstreets of ferry towns, pockets of lemon-scented air, the hush of temple courtyards, and long intervals of sea and sky suspended from white cables. At roughly 70 kilometers end-to-end, the Shimanami Kaido fits neatly into a full day of riding or a slow two-day ramble with an island stay. The surface is predominantly smooth asphalt. Where bridges rise, wide spiral ramps keep gradients around 3–4%, so you rarely need to grind out a climb. You follow a painted blue line and numbered markers all the way—no heroic navigation required.

Most travelers ride west-to-east or east-to-west; there’s no canonical direction. Many begin in Onomichi, a hillside town of narrow lanes and a storied ramen style, then hop across to Mukaishima by a tiny ferry. Others start in Imabari, famous for towels and yakitori, and roll northward toward the sun. Either way, the experience is equal parts journey and place-making: each island has its own rhythm, flavors, and micro-adventures, connected by bridges that act like scenic intermissions.

What Makes the Shimanami Kaido Different

The best cycling routes are more than lines on a map; they are curated experiences delivered by their surroundings. Shimanami Kaido is designed to be ridden, not merely endured. Start with safety and clarity: the blue line on the asphalt anchors your position throughout, reinforced by frequent bilingual signs and distance markers. On the bridges, separated pedestrian/cycle paths isolate you from highway traffic, while wind screens and wide shoulders keep things comfortable.

The engineering itself is a highlight. The Tatara Bridge—one of the world’s longest cable-stayed bridges—floats between Ikuchijima and Omishima like a harp, its pylons framing the island-dotted sea. The final approach to Shikoku traverses the Kurushima-Kaikyō Bridges, a chain of three monumental suspension spans that arc over whirlpool-stirred channels. Even the access ramps are a thoughtful touch: spiral climbs built to be pedaled in conversation, not attacked in agony.

Equally defining is the cultural and ecological fabric that runs beneath the route. In Setoda on Ikuchijima, the Kosan-ji Temple complex mixes ornate carvings with a brilliant white marble hill, a surreal counterpoint to the sea’s blues and greens. A short coast away, the Hirayama Ikuo Museum brings the painter’s serene vistas into focus against the very landscapes that inspired him. On Omishima, Oyamazumi Shrine houses samurai armor once worn in battle; step inside and the cedar-scented stillness is a narrative of centuries. Between them unfold orchards of lemons and mikan oranges, where roadside stands sell citrus you can eat like candy.

Then there is the human-scale hospitality the region has cultivated for cyclists. Public rental networks allow one-way drop-offs. Tool benches and pumps appear near rest stops. Cafés stock racks for bikes and pitchers of water. Locals tend to wave. Buses designated as “cycle buses” operate in some seasons for riders who want to skip a section or beat a headwind home. It all adds up to what the route promises at a glance: a ride that feels like it was made for you.

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How to Plan and Ride It

Start with time. Strong, photo-light riders can cover the 70 km in 4–6 hours, but most travelers discover that the real magic lies in wandering: popping into a shrine, lingering at a beach, and pausing on bridge lookouts. A single day is feasible if you keep stops short, but a two-day plan with a night on Ikuchijima (Setoda) or Omishima invites you to inhabit the islands rather than pass through them.

Next, decide on bikes. Options abound. The regional rental network supports one-way trips between numerous terminals. You’ll find city bikes, hybrids, e-bikes, and kid sizes; road bikes are available at specialized shops, notably near Onomichi’s waterfront and Imabari Station. Confirm drop-off hours—some depots close earlier than you might expect—and check whether front racks, child seats, or panniers can be reserved. If you’re bringing your own bicycle by train, know that many Japanese trains require bikes to be bagged (rinko style). Ferries across short hops are bike-friendly and casual.

Tolls on the cyclist/pedestrian paths have historically been minimal and often waived under promotional programs; check the current status before you go. When in effect, you may pay a handful of coins per bridge or a small all-bridges fee, typically well under the cost of a single café stop. Bridge approaches post clear signs about payment or free periods.

Seasonality matters. Spring (March–May) and autumn (October–November) offer mild temperatures and clear air; citrus season adds fragrance and color. Summer brings intense heat and glare—ride early, hydrate often, and seek shade during midday. Winter can be brisk, with stiff northerlies. Typhoons are possible late summer into early autumn; watch forecasts and be ready to reroute or pause.

Safety and etiquette are straightforward. In Japan you ride on the left. Use the dedicated cyclist ramps to reach bridge paths—do not enter the vehicle lanes. Bells are for awareness, not scolding; pass with a gentle ring and a quiet, “Sumimasen.” A national rule now encourages helmet use for all cyclists; some regions provide free or low-cost loans with rentals. Lights help in tunnels and at dusk. On breezy days, expect stiff crosswinds mid-span; keep both hands on the bar and maintain a calm line.

Navigation is elegantly simple: follow the blue line. It weaves you through small towns and over bridges without second-guessing. When that line diverges into choices—coastal scenic loops versus quicker inland connectors—signage clarifies which is the official route and which is an option. Even if you wander, you’re seldom lost for long; the islands are small, and the sea is a compass.

Food and water are part of the fun. Begin with a bowl of Onomichi ramen—clear soy broth with a hint of back fat—and a slice of citrus cake in Setoda. On Omishima, search out a lunch set highlighting local sea bream (tai). In Hakatajima, try salt ice cream made with the island’s famed salt; it’s a slightly briny sweetness that tastes like the breeze. Imabari celebrates yakitori done on flat grills; you’ll end your ride smoky and happy. Carry two bottles in summer; convenience stores appear regularly but not constantly. Most shops accept cash; small countryside cafés may not take cards.

Where to stay depends on your rhythm. Onomichi has boutique hotels and renovated warehouses along the waterfront, plus hillside guesthouses that trade elevators for views. Setoda has beachside hostels, minshuku, and designer lodges; it’s a perfect midpoint if you’re splitting your ride. Omishima offers quiet ryokan near Oyamazumi Shrine. Imabari, a larger city, ranges from business hotels near the station to spa resorts facing the sea.

If you want to add an element of challenge, consider climbing to Kirosan Observatory Park on Oshima. The viewpoint looks out over the Kurushima-Kaikyō Bridges and the maze of channels beneath—a panorama that makes the last descent into Imabari feel like riding into a postcard. Another digression: explore the back lanes of Ikuchijima’s Setoda old town, where citrus crates stack outside wooden shops and cats regard you with beach-town indifference.

Distances vary with detours, and ascents reflect ramp climbs rather than mountain passes. The whole crosses roughly 70 km with 500–700 meters of cumulative climbing, spread evenly enough for newcomers to enjoy.

Island-by-Island Guide and Quick Answers

Mukaishima. The opening notes are gentle: a short ferry from Onomichi drops you into sleepy neighborhoods. Coffee stands open early for riders. If you need a shakedown before the first bridge, loop a few flats along the shore and watch fishing boats nose out into the channel.

Innoshima. Rolling lanes thread through citrus groves and low hills. Look for small bakeries near the water—sweet buns and sea air are a combo that’s hard to beat. History buffs can seek traces of the Murakami kaizoku, the sea lords who once patrolled these straits.

Ikuchijima (Setoda). This is the unofficial cultural heart of the route. Kosan-ji’s carvings and the brilliant marble hill of Miraishin no Oka glow in sunlight. Sunset Beach is an easy swim stop come summer. The Hirayama Ikuo Museum gives you tranquil landscapes inside and out. Citrus is everywhere; try lemon-infused pastries and sodas that taste like distilled sunshine.

Omishima. Centered by Oyamazumi Shrine, whose towering camphor trees frame a precinct dense with history, Omishima invites slow footsteps as much as pedals. Nearby museums and cafés create a pocket neighborhood for a long lunch. Quiet inland roads offer shade and old farmhouses.

Hakatajima. Known for salt, this island’s modest coastal stretch reveals tide pools and low rock shelves. Ice cream tinged with mineral sweetness is a local signature, memorable on hot days. The bridge to Oshima is a short hop with broad views east and west.

Oshima. Gently rising lanes tee up one of the best viewpoints around: Kirosan Observatory Park. The side climb is optional but compelling; the summit frames the Kurushima-Kaikyō Bridges like a living textbook of suspension engineering. The descent toward Imabari is celebratory—roll with caution and grin.

In a world where many iconic rides demand either elite fitness or fearless traffic skills, the Shimanami Kaido stands out as a route that democratizes awe. It pairs world-class vistas with everyday ease: the line on the ground shows the way, the ramps do the lifting gradually, and the islands greet you without pretense. Come for the bridges, stay for the small human encounters—a baker’s nod, a shrine’s quiet, the bright acid of a fresh lemon soda by the sea. The ride ends, but the cadence of its calm stays with you long afterward.